Reykjavik, Iceland (2)

Published by

on

Aurora Guesthouse – Part 2

Today was my budget day, at least when it came to accommodation. I waved goodbye to the Reykjavik Natura Hotel, skipping their $46 breakfast in favor of a much more affordable spread at the bus station. It was just as tasty and one third the price! Then came the part I’d been dreading: hauling my bags up the hill to the Aurora Guesthouse. It wasn’t the easiest of tasks, but I hoped it would be worth the effort once I arrived.

Why didn’t I take a taxi, you ask? Sigh. I’d told myself I needed the exercise, but it was just a feeble excuse. So off I trudged, stopping more times than I care to admit to catch my breath. At last, the striking spire of Hallgrímskirkja came into view, a welcome sign that I’d finally made it. All that remained was to see if I could drop off my bags and set off to explore the heart of the city.

I entered the building to find a steep, narrow staircase awaiting me. While navigating the stairs was manageable, maneuvering my suitcase up those steps would pose a significant challenge. In moments like this, I am acutely aware of my 75 years.

Thankfully, the owner took pity on me and offered me a ground floor room at their sister guesthouse just across the road. I accepted immediately. The place was small and basic with no tea and coffee in the room, a shared bathroom, and towels only if you asked for them.

Two coathangers took the place of a wardrobe but it was spotlessly clean, breakfast was included and I didn’t intend to spend much time in the room anyway. It was also a small price to pay to be able to get into my room at 11am instead of 2pm.

So, I dropped my bags and rushed out, completely forgetting my hat and gloves, something I soon regretted as there was a biting wind. I was on a mission to eventually find the Rainbow Road, but for now, I wandered aimlessly, admiring the colourful houses and the murals that adorned their walls.

Eventually, I reached the seafront and the striking Viking Ship sculpture. The sky was a crisp, cloudless blue, and just as I was lining up for a selfie, a friendly stranger approached and offered to take the photo for me. I hesitated – after all, who hasn’t heard stories of tourists losing their phones to opportunistic thieves? But in the end, I handed it over. As a solo traveler, it’s a rare treat to actually appear in one of my own photos!

Next up – lunch. I’d read countless glowing reviews about Reykjavik’s legendary hotdog stand, Bæjarins Beztu, so I made it my mission to track it down. After wandering and searching for a while, I finally spotted the modest little kiosk and joined the ever-present queue.

My hotdog came fully loaded with three different sauces, and wow – what a treat! It was absolutely scrumptious. If I’d known it would taste that good, I’d have ordered two. But the thought of queuing all over again was enough to keep me moving. This is an absolute must for anyone visiting Reykjavik.

Opposite the hotdog stand the entire wall of a long building was covered in an elaborate mural. On closer inspection it proved to be a mosaic, the thousands of tiny pieces of tile creating a very beautiful piece of art.

I wandered the city markets, bought lava earrings and a hot chocolate to warm up, then wandered more until I eventually stumbled on the famous Rainbow Road. It was busy and I prefer my photos without crowds so I made a mental note to return later when hopefully it would be quieter. It was nearly time to prepare for my visit to the Blue Lagoon, but not before indulging in another of Reykjavik’s culinary treasures – a cinnamon bun. This heavenly pastry, coiled and layered with generous amounts of cinnamon and sugar was every bit as divine as it looked. Pure bliss in every bite!

The bus to the Blue Lagoon left on time and it was a 45 minute ride through jagged lava fields. The obligatory, nude shower was warm but negotiating the path from shower to the lagoon caused goose pimples to immediately stand up all over my body. I like cold but…! So it was with great pleasure that I sank into the milky blue depths.

Trivia: The average depth of Blue Lagoon is about 1.2m with an average temperature of 37ºC. The water is cloudy and rich in minerals which make it great for the skin, however not so good for the hair as the minerals make it stiff and unmanageable. Not so good either for any silver jewellery as it turns black, so leave it in your hotel room. The lagoon is man-made and the water supplied from the nearby geothermal plant which cannot be recycled due to its heavy mineral content.

But, enough of the trivia! The bottom was slimy and I have a distinct aversion to slime, however, I soon got used to it and proceeded to slime up my face in order to rejuvenate my aging skin. I continued to wander the waters with a slimy, white face, a free drink in one hand, and phone, locked safely into its plastic pocket, in the other.

I didn’t stay in long and opted for dinner in the restaurant. The cauliflower soup hit the spot, but at $35 so it should. All the meals I’d had in Iceland were delicious, I can’t think of any that were even mediocre. But they were expensive.

To anyone wanting to know which to visit, Sky Lagoon or Blue Lagoon, I’d say if you have the time go to both. They are very different, the water in Sky Lagoon is clear and the lagoon looks out over the ocean. Blue Lagoon water is a soft, cloudy blue and you can actually feel the silica in the water.

Yes, if time permits go to both! I’m glad I made time to do that.

My next two days were taken up with a full day tour, with a half day tour on the last day which allowed me to spend more time browsing Reykjavik’s shops. Greed got the better of me and I bought 3 cinnamon buns, one for now, one for later and one just in case. The Rainbow Road wasn’t so crowded which pleased me immensely and I searched out some souvenirs and chocolate to take home. As with the hotdogs and cinnamon buns, I’d heard rave reviews of Iceland’s chocolate.

My time in Iceland was drawing to a close. The next morning, I stood shivering in the biting 0ºC cold, waiting for the Flybus to take me to the airport. True to form, I was far too early – so early, in fact, that I couldn’t even check in my bags.

Eventually, I made it through security and straight into the clutches of duty-free shopping. That’s where reason left me. I somehow ended up buying seven miniature bottles of alcohol. Why? I don’t drink, and my family are wine and beer enthusiasts. Those little bottles became unwanted travel companions, clinking annoyingly through my entire journey across Scotland and England. I also picked up more chocolate—because, of course, I’m a chocoholic and self-declared connoisseur. One bite in, though, and it was straight into the bin. It was unpleasant, to my taste anyway. Bitter disappointment!

Before we took off the wings had to be de-iced, which caused me a few seconds of concern. Then it started to snow! Fortunately (or unfortunately) we left before the snow took hold. I heard afterwards that parts of the ring road were cut off along the south and I reflected that it might have been nice to extend my stay if our bus had been unable to get through.

I said my goodbyes to Iceland with a heavy heart. It’s such a unique country, and I realized I probably wouldn’t ever go back, so I had to hold on to all those wonderful memories. This blog is one way I’m making sure I remember it all. And if you’re sitting there debating whether or not to visit Iceland, just stop thinking about it and go!

Leave a comment