Hotel Natura, Reykjavik – Part 1

My tour was over but I still had 5 days in which to explore Reykjavik and wander wherever my feet took me. I’d booked two short tours to areas I was keen to visit, and also a visit to the world-renowned Blue Lagoon so there was plenty to look forward to. The day trips deserve separate posts so this will be solely about the Icelandic capital.

I had a lazy morning, not arriving at breakfast until after 9am. Most of my fellow travellers had disappeared so I said goodbye to those who hadn’t, then walked over to the bus station to catch the Hop on Hop off bus. My travel agent had included a two day pass to make up for the change in itinerary when my initial tour was cancelled.

First up, the Perlan Museum! Originally a cluster of six hot water tanks, a glass dome has been added and the building now houses a plantetarium, an ice cave, multiple displays and a 360° observation deck. Four tanks are still in use today.

The Northern Lights didn’t make an appearance during our tour, so I jumped at the chance to check out the Northern Lights Show. It turned out to be a great experience!

My diary suggests I went to a lava show, however it wasn’t a show, more a series of displays showing the incredibly diverse, volcanic natural history of the country. It was well set out and very interesting, especially as I’d actually visited some of the sites mentioned.

That was the fire of Iceland, next was the Ice. The Ice Cave was cold, so cold it seeped insidiously through my many layers of clothing. By the time I emerged I was shivering – and here was me thinking I was indestructible.

But it was so beautiful, an icy, blue and white 100 metre passage which made me wish it was the right time of year to visit the real thing. In fact it was as near to the real thing as you could get as it was formed with over 350 tons of snow which had been transported from the Icelandic mountains.

A visit to Perlan wouldn’t be complete without checking out the view from the observation deck. And what a view it was, it was a beautiful clear day and Reykjavik was spread out before me, with the church spire dominating the city. In the distance cloud topped mountains beckoned, and although I’d just finished my tour where I’d seen many wonderful mountains covered in lava, snow and ice, I still felt their pull.

I limped my way back to the Hop on Hop off bus, my feet protesting loudly. Some of my toes had gone from a pretty pearly pink to an unfortunate bruised blue; so, I settled in for the rest of the tour, taking in the sights from the prime front-row window seat.

The following day I had another lazy start and ambled down to breakfast only to be told it wasn’t included! What! Who did that? What gremlin messed up?
In order not to totally embarrass myself by arguing I paid up – a dumb move as it cost me $46! I’d have been better to have hightailed it to the nearest cafe, but I did make up for it by stuffing my bag with a few pastries, a boiled egg and a bread roll. Have I mentioned before that I travel on a budget? $46 for dinner is fine, but for breakfast, when my usual meal is a mere bowl of cereal, it was a bit more than I could tolerate.

My day deteriorated further when I missed the bus and had to wait 45 minutes for the next. Eventually I made it to Harpa, one of Reykjavik’s most striking buildings in the heart of the city. It’s a magnificent concert hall and conference centre which opened on 11th May 2011.

I had my mind set on visiting the Icelandic Phallological Museum. So there I was, a sprightly 73-year-old on a mission to visit said museum, however finding the place turned out to be like searching for a needle in a haystack. When I finally stumbled on it I couldn’t help but feel a little like a fish out of water. I mean, as an older woman looking at a room full of penises, I started to wonder if I’d hit my head and wandered into the wrong episode of a bizarre sitcom!

Who knew there was an entire museum dedicated to male private parts? But once I got past the initial shock, I found it fascinating! They’ve displayed over 200 penises from nearly every land and sea mammal in Iceland, plus some from around the globe. Who knew it would be such a well-rounded experience?

Trivia: The collection actual began when Sigurdur Hjartarson was given a bull’s penis as a joke. The joke continued until 1980 when he had collected 13 specimens. He decided to continue collecting and displaying penises of all Icelandic mammals as well as animals from around the world. The current display consists of penises or penis bones from huge whales and elephants to tiny rodents.

In addition to seeking specimens from the natural world, several kind gentlemen decided to contribute their goods to the museum. The letter below doesn’t suggest that the donation occurred posthumously, as was the case with one individual, raising the question of whether he became disillusioned with his possession and chose to part with it before his demise.

I make no apology for including photos of male phalluses, it was truly an unusual and educational way to spend a few hours and one I can highly recommend. But I did refrain from including a photo of the human specimen in order not to offend the sensibilities of my readers.

My taste buds were throwing a party. I was in heaven and I swear the waffles winked at me before I devoured them.

After searching out a shop which sold umbrellas to keep off the rain I found my way to the Settlement Museum, which offers a fascinating glimpse into the history of the settlement of Iceland.

As I entered the museum, the warm atmosphere contrasted with the chilly weather outside, creating an inviting ambiance. I was captivated by the stories behind each artifact on display, which showcased the ingenuity and resilience of those who first lived in this formidable environment.

One of the most striking features of the museum is the heavily protected ruins of the Viking longhouse, which were discovered during building work. These archaeological remains are meticulously excavated, preserved and displayed, allowing one to see the remnants of an ancient community with a sense of reverence.

These ancient walls reminded me of the enduring strength and adaptability of the settlers, who faced the harshness of nature to build a life in this beautiful yet challenging landscape. I could almost hear the echoes of the past, imagining the everyday life, struggles, and triumphs of those who first called this incredible land home.

The photo above shows part of an ancient low turf wall, noting it as the oldest man-made structure in Reykjavik. It highlights a light-colored layer of tephra from a volcanic eruption around 871. The wall shows underneath the layer of tephra indicating that the wall was built before the volcano erupted.

Trivia: Tephra is a fragmented material which is produced by an explosive volcanic eruption. It consists of a variety of materials; typically glassy particles formed by the cooling droplets of magna which can be the size of large boulders or fine ash (source: Wikipedia)

The experience was not merely educational but deeply reflective, as it prompted me to ponder over the complexities of life in a time long past. This museum is not just a collection of artifacts; it is a portal to understanding the deep roots of Icelandic culture and identity, making visiting it a must for anyone intrigued by history and the powerful stories that shape the Icelandic world today.

I find history of that period fascinating and if I could live my life again would make a career of archeology of that time.

Next to the Settlement Museum is Aðalstræti 10, Reykjavik’s oldest house, built in 1762 by Skúli Magnússon (named the Father of Reykjavik). Unfortunately, I have no idea why, I didn’t take photos of its delightful black exterior and white mullioned windows. The Bishop of Iceland occupied it for many years, but in 1926, Silli and Valdi purchased the house and for over 50 years it became the first grocery store in Iceland after which it was developed into a museum.

Outside the rain was still spitting but as I now had an umbrella I decided to walk to the lake where birds were fighting noisily over crumbs being tossed their way. Whooper swans, a variety of ducks, seagull and pigeons. What a flurry!

It was a breeze to find and conveniently located near the city centre. After a day filled with fascinating experiences, I cheerfully made my way back downhill to my hotel, and on the way picked up a Subway salad for dinner to offset the cost of my breakfast.

Tomorrow morning, I move to the Aurora.